A Bilbao Surprise

 After our exertions in the garden for Garden Visits, Sue wanted a change of scenery, so I suggested Bilbao as I wanted to see some paintings held there.  Some of you will know that my taste in 'Art' is somewhat eccentric and the artist in question was also 'eccentric' ... Cy Twombly.

There are 9 paintings in all ... '9 Discourses on Commodus'.  I will be happy to discuss these but it is always better with a glass of wine!

However this Art Break began to change once we talked to our friends Clive and Mary who mentioned that the restaurant Nerua at the Guggenheim had a tasting menu.  We investigated this further and boooked the chef's table which is in the kitchen, allowing us to watch proceedings whilst we ate. 

We arrived in Bilbao on the Monday afternoon (6 hours drive with stops) but first we had to negotiate the car park which was accessed down a narrow sloping entrance at which point it said Residents (we think, as Basque language is impossible and Spanish is difficult as I learnt it 30 years ago!).  I did try to reverse back up until someone else arrived so I was committed, but we were allowed in and did find a vacant spot. Phew, (but more later.)

Our hotel was just on the edge of the historic old town of Bilbao, where there are lots of eating places.  However they are basically all selling Pintxos, the traditional 'snack' served on a small piece of bread.  Sue does not do bread!  We had a walk around this medieval area and then looked for somewhere to eat a meal.  By 8 o'clock the squares were full of people eating pintxos and drinking beer or wine.  It didn't help that the town was full of Spanish tourists who'd all brought their old Mum with them.  We installed ourselves in a bar (all the outside tables were taken) and ordered 2 plates of red Tuna.

As you can see, Tuna and a glass of red kept the old girl happy.

We were amazed at the quantity of tuna we were served, and it was as we like it ... the tuna was put on the gridle and jumped off again!

The next morning we walked to the big Fish Market and realised why we had been served so much tuna whereas in France a small steak is 5 euros plus.  In the market we saw whole fish being sold and we eventually found the cheapest stall (the one with the long queue) where they were selling whole Bonito Tuna for 4.80 euros a kilo.  We resolved to return on the Thursday morning to take home our cool box full of fish.

Then the evening was our reservation for the Chef's Table.  Upon arrival we were greeted loudly by the whole brigade shouting hello.  We sat down overlooking the kitchen and we confirmed that we wanted the tasting menu and accompanying wines (5 different glasses).  We then sat and watched.

This young lass (who looks about 15 to me) was very competent and worked a lot on her own but, when we talked to her she is 18, and has only worked in the restaurant for 3 months after finishing college in Valencia.

Then the experience began.  The Amuse-bouche arrived, with a glass of Cava, and the dish, and all subsequent dishes, was explained in detail by a member of the brigade.

A soft boiled quails egg topped with a langoustine mousse, a squid paste and vegetables, coated in tempura batter and fried, and layers of potato and other crunchy vegetables, all based on traditional pintxos.

Our intention was to take photos of every dish but our excitement and then the wine made us a bit lax.

The first course was a selection of 5 cherry tomatoes which had been peeled,their flesh strengthened with 'calcium'(?) before they each had a different flavour injected into them.  The idea was that we had to try to guess the infused flavours.

Each tomato, once broken in the mouth was a revelation.

We were next served aubergine, with the pulp worked on before being reformed and then coated to make it resemble aubergine. 

Next, marinaded anchovies served with an olive and pepper sauce.

This was followed by a 'grilled' oyster and an anchovy foam.  However, the grilling was to have the oyster touched by a piece of glowing oak ember.  And even Sue, who doesn't like oysters or foam, loved this course.

Then we were served a piece of Tuna with a tomato and shallot sauce ...

.. followed by a lovely piece of Sea Bass, although we felt that this was let down as the accompanying sauces of rhubarb and spinach were not strong enough in flavour.

Unfortunately you can see that we had reached that point in the meal where our best intentions to photograph each course began to go awry.

We arrived at the meat course with a plate of Iberian pork belly and pickled vegetable.

It looked attractive to begin with !

Finally pudding.  Sue had not been looking forward to this as it sounded just too ordinary.  However, this Lemon Pie with almond, honey and rosemary in a sugar-work shell was a triumph and the waiter kept telling us to mix it all up and the flavours would be better!

A truly memorable occasion, especially as we love when a meal becomes a special event and this certainly was.  I've now got to find some reason to convince Sue that we need to return as they change the menu 3 times a year!

Things could not stay at this exalted level and the next day, after going round the museum, we ate in the Bistro in the Guggenheim.  Suficient to say it was OK.  But ... that evening we walked around the old town again and ended up buying a lot of fruit to bring home ... cherries, peaches, nectarines, plums, all half price to what we can buy in France.

Thursday morning after breakfast we went back to the fish market and joined the queue.

It was a husband and wife team and the man, who looked an hombre was excellent.  We purchased 2 smallish tuna which he prepared and cut up with an enormous 'knife' after having weighed them.

We couldn't resist the sardines at 2.99 euros a kilo either.

So, as you can see, our Art Break successfully turned into a Food Experience. Yet we left Bilbao in style as we did not understand the system for paying before exiting the car park and we managed to block the exit whilst we were 'helped' by one of the attendants.  Only one driver tooted his horn!

But of course, back home there was still work to be done.

It's a good job we like fish!