Chusak

Chusak is the main Korean holiday. It is a bit like "Thanks giving" in the States when everyone goes home to their family. As Guy had four days off it seemed the ideal time to go. The journey was very long and brought home to me just how far away he is - further than China! We flew from Limoge to Manchester and spent a couple of days with our friends Paul and Jennifer, then flew to Dubai (after 2 hour delay) where we arrived at midnight local time. We were amazed to see so many people about, shopping etc. it could have been any time of the day or night.

We had in our minds that the flight from Dubai to Seoul was about 3 hours not 9+ which it turned out to be. We always seemed to be being served breakfast which didn't help our orientation or body clocks to adjust. We are obviously not seasoned travellers. We eventually arrived at Seoul airport at 17.30 (tea time). After negotiating immigration and avoiding dodgey taxi drivers we found a bus to take us to the city centre. Fortunately I sat next to an american girl who together with the driver put us down at the nearest bus stop to our hotel. I began to realise my age as we dragged our cases down streets which all looked the same and seemed miles from the bus stop.

With the help of a bit of sign language we eventually found our hotel which was adequate with the most hideous furniture which looked as though it should have been on a fairground ride.

We fell into bed and slept until the middle of the night , awake for 4 hours and then slept until 9am. It was pouring with rain (something we were to get used to) so we went on the obligatory city tour to get our bearings. Unfortunately towards the end we fell asleep so it was back to the hotel to recover before meeting Guy in the evening. We had arranged to meet at a subway which neither he nor us knew so no clock to meet under. This resulted in some delay in meeting up ( with grumbles about him always being late - but infact he was early!!) It was lovely to see him. We all set off to find a restaurant - after a couple of false starts, (no vegetarian option and Guy declaring they were a rip off), we had a fabulous meal. Korean food consists of about 20 individual dishes including some that arrive with their contents literally boiling. We arranged to meet Guy and his girlfriend , Carla, the following evening.

We woke the next morning to sun but not for long. It was very hot and humid and the rain was like a monsoon. Guy told us that this is not at all seasonal but there was a typhoon in China and Korea was getting the edge of it - just our luck. In view of the weather we went to the recently opened National Museum.

It is huge and another experience like the Guggenheim. We seem to be on this mission to see all the modern iconic buildings in the world - suits me.

We needed a rest after a couple of hours so we went to the coffee shop where John had green tea. He was delighted with the tea ceremony which involved pouring tea from pot to bowl to small cup. The idea of the middle bowl is to catch any errant tea leaves. There was a vast choice of teas including chrysanthemum and red ginseng, I may be a pleb but they all taste like hot water to me.

The monsoon continued all day but late afternoon we went for a walk around the hundreds of ceramic shops near our hotel. We ended up buying a piece which we both liked which turned out to be produced by a distinguished professor. Problem was it weighed as much as 2 house bricks and was twice as long. Typical us, in with two feet and reflect afterwards. (We were astounded and relieved when we had the ceremonial unwrapping back at home and it was in one piece - a total miracle that it had withstood countless baggage handling.) In the evening we met Guy and Carla - our meeting arrangements were " slightly" more specific so we rendez-vous'd OK. We had the usual mission to find a restaurant but then had a lovely evening. Carla is a really nice person and it was a delight to meet her.

The following day we were to take the bus from Seoul to Gyeongu, an ancient city. Knowing that we had to transport the "house bricks" we asked reception to order a taxi to the bus station. However the girl refused saying it was too expensive, so we had no option but to brave the subway in the rush hour. Our OAPs lost look must have taken over as we were stopped by 3 different people offering to help. Guy and Carla say that Korean people are reserved and never offer to help them but we didn't find this. Apparently age is respected, I knew being 60 would be an advantage one day! The last little man who offered help gave us his phone number - we have no idea why. We travelled like sardines to the bus station and successfully found the bus to Gyeongu. I was most concerned that my bladder would survive the 4 hour journey but I needn't have worried because we stopped at a very modern Service Station where I had a "fish bar" - sort of junk food on a stick.

I would add (for all you potential Korean travellers) that the loos are everywhere and spotlessly clean, although you soon realise that you are required to put your toilet paper in the bin provided and not down the loo - guess they forgot to make the pipes wide enough!